two days on the Marquesas Islands:
I slept under the stars, got woken up by the sun, and on my way to dry land I met someone I know. I knew he rarely leaves his yacht, so I imagined how much he missed fresh fruit. I had a lot of these, so I offered that he should go and take some from Tanasza – it is such a great feeling to see someone smile first thing in the morning!
On land, I had some coffee with my friends, then I went to give someone a souvenir - a piece of amber, and on my way I met someone who offered me a horse ride there. Then, on my way back I stopped by to say hello to Andy, who treated me with a wonderful lunch (raw fish, rice, grapefruit). With my belly full of delicacies, I came back to the yacht (on the beach, I nearly fell from the horse because the stirrups were too long, and the blanket which served as a saddle would slide down the horse’s back).
As due to the lack of wind I haven’t set off today, as I planned, I asked Jonathan to help me with a photo session, he has a good camera. (Jonathan was born on the yacht, and he has been sailing ever since, i.e. for 16 years). When I was leaving the yacht, I ended up in water, I don’t know how it happened, but I just stepped next to the pontoon instead of on it. Surprise, surprise, huh?;) Anyway, local fishermen had some entertainment
We had a special guest during our photo session - an aboriginal inhabitant of the island came with his horse (a handsome man, with tattoos, a bit ‘wild’, he has a herd of horses, but no home, he simply lives under the stars, hunts...). After the session, I walked to a neighbouring beach, had a bathe... It was raining, but I found shelter in the warm sea... it was amazing, a beautiful panorama of the mountains, fragrant flowers and great colours... and this silence, soft murmur of waves and quiet dripping of raindrops... my heart was so peaceful then... I even considered... not staying there, but coming back and finding my place in the world there, if only for a moment... well, let’s say, until my French gets better...
Then, I was invited for dinner, I listened to a lecture on the local Mona powers. Yes, Nuku Hiva is a strange island, there is something there that makes your flesh creep, certainly some energy is just perceptible there. Although the people of Polynesia have a lot to say about it, they choose to keep silent.
and that was my extra day on the island. On the next day, I was given a fish - just for a smile, from the fishermen, and it turned out that I could keep the anchor that I’d borrowed :)
I was relishing the last hours on the Marquesas islands, the view of children swimming in the sea. I was watching people riding horses on the beach, I did some sightseeing. For the first time I ate a cacao fruit. I found out that a lemon can be a great under arm deodorant! I also found out how to put flowers into hair so that they stay there despite the wind, that the local mango, which is a bit smaller than the usual one, when it is green is good if we salt it or pour it with lemon...
I was also told how to recognise when a caught fish is ill. Perhaps when on sea the method is not very practical but when you are on the shore, you kill such a fish, put it on the ground for a moment and... if flies or ants don't rush to it, I wouldn't recommend eating it. It's so simple, isn't it?
The night was awful, though. Because of the rain, Mr Cockroach came to me. I thought: ‘I will treat him with a flip-flop for a good start of the day.’ But I missed the dodger. It was raining cats and dogs so I had no choice but to share my cabin with him. I'm telling you - it a horrible pain in the neck. And probably he's going to set off on the cruise with me, and later someone will accuse me of not being alone on the cruise, lol.
On the next day, again miraculously (how many miracles are there, huh?) I didn't tie my pontoon and I had to go on a surfboard without a sail to catch it. Then, I didn't tie it again next to the dock, and the wind blew it away. This time I had to wait like a... well, just like me!, for waves to bring it back to me... I must have been thinking about something else... and after a long time of staying at the harbour thinking is so lazy!!!
ah, you're asking about the tsunami. Yes, indeed, there was a tsunami but much smaller than on Samoa. I just set off on Jasiek's yacht to get some drinking water and the hooting started. Everyone was running away from the bay, and Jasiek and I were rushing to the bay to get my little Tanasza. I'm thankful to Jasiek for this because he didn't have to risk his yacht, but he saw tears pouring into my eyes and, as he said, he would even swim to save my yacht – and this is why I like him so much! Tsunami didn't come at the said hour, and the second alarm was called off so we sailed to the other bay on two yachts. And it was rather weird there. The waves were strange and when I was tying my yacht to Jasiek's yacht (in all the hurry, I left my both anchors with the fenders). Suddenly, a strong current raised the water level. Jasiek thought that my engine must have had an engaged gear because we were pulled so strong. After a short time, when the water was falling down, we were pushed in the other direction even stronger! Jasiek’s chain spring and hawse hole got pulled out in the place where I was tied to his yacht. As quickly as possible, I put off from the s/y Winger (it's the name of Jasiek's yacht as you remember from previous entries) and we decided to go back – in case of a real danger, getting away from ‘our’ bay would be easier.
We got back after dusk. When I was trying to pull the stern anchor and drop it again, I simply didn’t have enough physical strength to do it. It got stuck, the there was no more fuel in the pontoon, too (the reserve of gas was temporarily taken out of the pontoon) and thus, at this dead night, with my skin chapping because of the exertion, I simply started crying, not as a woman but as a human being, because of the helplessness. I paddled to s/y Winger, Jasiek made me some tea and when he finally got this awful anchor the world was beautiful again.