Hawaii - Vanuatu, 3400 Nm non stop.
I set from Honolulu for my solo around the world trip knowing that the
first leg of my planned 22 months long circumnavigation will be a
learning curve. I did think first month would be a test for me and my
boat to see how we both handle what the ocean would throw at us, but I
didn't expect the trial already at the first night.
As the sun went down my mainsheet block broke and at the very next
moment the pin for the autopilot came undone, so I was trying set my
wind vane and steer at the same time, having my boom flying over my
head. How wonderful would be if my head lamp worked or if I had a
chance to go down below to fetch my flashlight, spare blocks and some
straps! Also, because I was still close to land being surrounded by
ships was making me nervous, especially since the close one's would not
necessarily answer my VHF calls.
I quickly learned to be careful what I ask for: the next morning the
Pacific welcomed me totally becalmed, so I had the chance to repair my
gear but after the work was done I stayed with no wind. As I carried
little fuel and decided to save it for doldrums, I sat for two days
going nowhere and wondering if that was how my dream that I worked so
hard for is supposed to look like.
I was on the Ocean, by myself at the very beginning of my big adventure
and as much I was happy finally to be out there. I must admit that the
first days were very hard mentally. I kept wondering if I could really
do this because I haven't done such a long solo passage before. I
needed to learn my boat. Learn to set the sails efficiently, to
recognize the noises and also my body needed to got used to routine of
getting up every 20 minutes and looking around for ships. I spoke to
pilot whales about it, as they came alongside one day. Fortunately they
sang back. That calmed me down that I'm not insane and talking to
myself.
I had birds almost all the way, always wondering which island they came
from. Couple of times I sailed through big school of fish. Big
ones,
too big for my line so when I cought one it went loose because I was
not strong enough to pull it into the boat. Or maybe I'm simply not
good fisherman. Other little fish I cought, I dragged behingd the boat
as I figured out this way I would avoid killing her. I would sat
outside in the cockpit so she would not feel lonely but by the time I
was ready for my cevice my fish and the hook was already taken away by
a bigger fish. Well, timing is everything in life as they say.
One day, about half way into my journey, I had this weird feeling in my
stomach. Call it an intuition. I kind of felt bad stuff is going to
happen this coming night. I would set my alarm clock to keep a good
watch out but when tired, my alarm clock doesn’t wake me up. Somehow I
woke myself up, went outside and there it was, a fishing boat. We were
close and on a collision course. Its lights were nothing like by the
book, so I was not sure if they were trailing any nets and of course I
had no luck contacting him on the radio. The time goes fast in
situations like this. I needed to change my course to avoid his hull
and again of course, the same moment I was about to tack a huge squall
came - I could not possibly see it coming, as there was no moon and the
sky was black and full of clouds with thunderstorms. Did I tell you
already my furler had a little problem what made me unable to furl the
genoa when needed? Of I went next to this fishing boat, too much of
genoa on, boom in the water and rain pouring over my eyes. I could see
literally nothing especially since the waves were big enough that the
lights of the boat were so close to me that they would be behind a big
wall of water every now and then. Finally he came on the radio, quickly
changing his course so I was safe again. I wished him a good night
asking to keep a good watch so he won’t run over single-handers.
Hopefully it will work next time and we will be safer.
Shortly after I saw for the first time in my life a rainbow during the
night. Somehow the moon made a patch of a light through the rain and
made me smile again. That was awesome. I thought even though my furler
was worrying me, my 3 main battens from main sail were poking holes in
my new main, my engine would not start sometimes, and the boat was
leaking over my books - that’s ok, this is part of my dream I thought
and kept smiling.
I was considering myself very lucky being able to give a shot to go
through all this. I gave up a lot for this trip, worked hard but as you
see - dreams do become truth! I am solo, but in fact I would not be
where I am if not for all the people who helped me out. I had many
persons coming to my boat making her ready prior setting off. It is not
possible to say thanks enough to you all so I would like to say I'm
taking your hearts with me all around the world. Companies like
INTER-PRO auto (www.inter-proauto.com) or WDT (www.mywdt.com) and WEST
MARINE (www.westmarine.com)supported me with needed gear and I'm very
grateful for that. I even had this thought that if you want the
attention of people you actually should go solo sailing - so many
people follow my progress, cheering me up making me stronger in hard
times.
Now I'm already in Vanuatu. Efate Island, Port Vila. It was actually
very funny to yell first "land -ho!" for myself. Even though no one
could hear it but dolphins and birds, that's the moment I think all of
us sail for. The land welcomed me with one of the friendliest nations I
have met in my travels.
Yachting World Marina (www.Yachtingworld-vanuatu.com) took me under
their wing becoming a part of my trip sponsoring me with a place to
berth my yacht. The Moorings hotel (www.nomadsmooring.com)provded me
with a gorgeous accommodation right on the water - a welcome change to
sleep in a big bed and soak in a hot shower. I made friends with
Michelle of Crusoe Fishing Adventures (crusoe@vanuatu.com.vu) who took
me out fishing and showed me how fishing should be done. Eloise
(ihipocampus@vanuatu.com.vu)took me for a horse ride on a black sand
beach off her Seahorse Ranch where you can enjoy fire dancing in the
evenings. Dan supported me with Internet connection in his Pacific
Internet Cafe. Ross, the Commodore of Cruising Yacht Club of Vanuatu,
took me around the island showing the right places to go to fetch
things. I also very quickly learned about the cruisers community. I was
welcomed with a breakfast, and dry clothes on a yacht "Liahona" with
Leanne, Greg and their daughter Georgia, they announced on a net that I
needed some repairs done and the same day I had people coming with
tools and good ideas helping me out. (Look up my website for details).
As for the island, many people who come here for holidays simply fall
in love with he place and stay. Must be the lovely smiles on native
people faces, the organic fruits and veggies, exceptionally beautiful
waterfalls, good surf or the afternoon drinking Kava because even no
possibility of buying beer on weekends didn't bother them :)
It is hard to leave such place behind and the friends you made but I
must go, the whole world is waiting! Today I just finished repairing my
furler, picked up a main from a sail maker. I will go and check it out
anchoring in a little island outside of the lagoon where I want to go
snorkeling. I just saw a seasnake next to my boat I'm little afraid of
but I was told in Torres Straight there are crocodiles and big sharks
and jelly fishes waiting for me so what is a little snake right???
to be continued….
nat s/y tanasza polska