I decided to have some rest today... so I sent the materials, transferred all the photos to my computer, caught up with my work, wrote some articles, gave an interview, sorted out things related to Panama and... I spent the rest of my relaxation time at the engine :) (it works now! it turned out that together with fuel, it was also taking up air). My little Tanasza seems so big after the guests have left... a bit deserted? J.J. said that I could stay at his resort one more night, I’m so grateful. This time, I could fully enjoy the wide bed with white sheets and a hot shower... It felt so good!
I welcomed the new day with a list of things to do and I have no idea what to start with. I need to get fuel, buy food, clean up the yacht, pack the pontoon, give the anchor chain back, collect my parcel – a camera, which Tomek bought for me (www.mtj-logistik.de) and which was sent to Laila and Raffeallo Cantoni (
Before seeing Robert and his carer off to the airport, I didn’t even have time to ask them about London, where they had stayed for one night on their way to the Caribbean Islands. Robert liked the London Eye most – it’s a kind of a vertical merry-go-round with little wagons fixed to it. You can have a look at London from very high in the air. I heard that it could go a bit faster, though :) Despite the fact that the weather was very British, they saw a lot, and would like to thank Agnieszka and Sergiusz, who put them up and invited for dinner, for the hospitality. Andrzej really appreciates it that they both found time for them, although it was a weekday.
The road leading to the airport was really beautiful, with mountains just at the seaside and meandering paths. The waterfall was not big but it was situated in botanical gardens. I was amazed! The hum of water... the place was located among bamboos, and the soothing silence was disturbed only by the sound of birds...
We got up very early. Robert took me on a pontoon for fresh, still hot, French bread. Our little Robert is great at steering the overboard engine. I think he must have had some training before coming here :)
A quick breakfast at Tanasza and we’re going at the bay for a photo shoot. Robert set the main sail on his own, then he was cranking while I was taking out the end of the rope. Then, when I was busy, he steered the yacht under full sail. Just as was the case with the pontoon, he was just perfect at it. He’s really fit for being a crew member. A couple days more and I think I wouldn’t have to explain anything to him. He’s quick at carrying out commands and willing to work with sails –it’s pleasant to look at, really.
In the meantime, Andrzej was on a pontoon by the yacht and he was trying his best not to get wet during a short rain. He was bravely floating around us, taking photos, while Robert was trying not to run him over.
Now, we need to pack our bags, put...
Today, Robert saw a boa snake, a green lizard and a man cracked a coconut for him, so he was drank milk and eating ate squash directly from the coconut. The coconuts here are different from the ones that little Karolinka ate on Cocos Island. Robert told me that the milk tasted like a pear. Right now, he’s sitting in front of me, writing postcards. After lunch, we’ll quickly go on a small island with a beach... and to the swimming-pool. Tomorrow, before setting out, we’d like to see the waterfall. They say you can swim under it.
Robert began his day by jumping into the swimming-pool and later, together with Andrzej, he went sightseeing. They saw warm springs and a volcano, which, as Robert told me, he liked very much. Probably, we’re going to see the waterfall today. On their way, they saw villages and a street market. From what they told me, the views must have been amazing and they had lots of adventures, they met the locals, and Robert was singing to Andrzej on their way back.
In the meantime, I sailed on Tanasza with Elvis (brother of the JJ’Paradise owner) to Soufriere Bay, where I picked up boys from the beach. Of course, Robert was absolutely wet as he had just got out of water. Then, on a local motorboat we went to see the cleft and we saw hundreds of vampires, well... I mean bats. I was really impressed, I could look at them and listen to them for hours...
On our way back to Marigor Bay, where our hotel is located, the dusk started falling as we were passing by lovely bays with beaches and...
Yesterday, on Sunday, the 17th of May, evening, we reached an island 22 miles distant from St. Lucia. We’re on Martinique, a French island.
Captain Andrzej took command of the yacht. While we were sailing, the weather was good, waves were not too high and the sun was shining. When we were entering the Le Marin port, the engine stalled – one small cable got disconnected, and with the use of a pontoon and with the help of sailors from a neighbouring yacht, we managed to place the yacht next to a fuel pontoon. Then, we had dinner and slept, slept and slept!
In the morning, we set sail and, by the courtesy of the marina’s hosts, we didn’t have to pay for mooring. We still had some immigration-related issues (check-in formalities) to deal with, we ate breakfast and went by car to the beach! We’re on the beach right now. The two gentlemen are swimming in the water and I’m writing to you.
P.S. Robert passed a test for a good crew member, he was in a good shape although...
Ocean smells of paradise (Andrzej’s entry in Natasza’s blog)St. Lucia, 11:00, 17.05, AD 2009
Fourth day on the island. We are about to sail out of Rodney. Many new friends, experiences and, as usual, a hundred things to do and no time to do them. The Caribbean is the Caribbean, though... “easy maaaan”, then :) We decided not to rush. After all, we are here to get some rest. We had to explain our point of view to Natasza, which was not that easy considering her being an extremely active person... Having done that, we are enjoying the results :)Robert is a great guy. He needs time at the beginning when he does not know somebody, but then he’s all questions and stories. He soaks up every moment here, palms, waves, or jumping into a pool. I am very happy with his joy. OK, I also like being here :) Very much... We are past scuba diving, conquering swimming pools, and springboard jumps. Integration all the way:) And now, we...
16.05. 2009
After a long journey over the Atlantic Ocean, Robert Rumak, a charge of the “Against the Odds” foundation, and Andrzej Trojanek – Robert’s guardian and a friend of the cruise, have finally arrived.
Tanasza is the first yacht that Robert has ever embarked. He likes it, but he imagined it to be bigger. He also enjoyed palm trees from the start. ’There are none in Poland,’ he says. Robert also found local food tasty, though ’different.’ He eats a lot :) and with pleasure. One thing he misses is his favourite apple juice, which is not available on the island. He is very fond of the Caribbean beaches; one thing that perplexes him is that cars on the entire island drive on the opposite side of the road (in Poland cars drive on the right side) :)
Although Robert cannot attend classes in school due to his trip, we provide lessons for him here – everyone around speaks English so Robert has to practise it all the time! He learns many new things...
Each and everyone of us has those days when we fail at almost everything... Today is one of such days... so this entry will be short... I'm sure tomorrow will turn out to be much better...
12.05.09
I’ve been very busy today. I had to visit a sailmaker, find a mechanic, an electrician, chains, etc., etc., etc. Tanaszka was an absolute tip (I was doing the cleaning:) ) . When I looked at it, I wondered if it had ever been worse. Even the guy who came to help me with the self steering gear worried if I was robbed or something... I also went to the nearby Marigot Bay. Fortunately, it rained and I did not have to go there with my motorbike friend (Hallelujah!) again.
I took a coach, filled with people who nodded their heads in a rhythm of reggae, and I reached the place where I was to talk to JJ. It was Ivan’s recommendation (I met Ivan way back in Cape Town and mentioned him before). Although JJ is a VIP here, he does remember about his friends and he accepted my invitation to take part in the “Medivet with Natasza” project. Robert and Andrzej will stay at JJ’s resort (JJ’s Paradise) and Tanasza will be moored in a dock in front of his hotel. If someone...
I still find myself staring at clouds by habit, wondering what they will bring...
I think it is only now that the fatigue is beginning to wear off...
I guess I did a stupid thing again by writing about those cicadas... Do you know what they really were? FROGS!!! Nice, huh? I’m writing about it so that you can smile a bit:)
Oh, one more thing – the best part of the day – I went to the cinema. I love going to the cinema... This time I was taken there on a motorbike (thanks, Rafaello), but the drive was so crazy that I closed my eyes in fear and I saw nothing of the island...
Yesterday, cicadas and birds sung me a lullaby... and the buzz of mosquito wings... I guess I will start to believe that I spend most of my life on water because of them.
After I reach some land, the first breakfast there is always very special. Right now I’m sipping good latte and I have just filled myself up with fresh French bread with eggs... I’m reading e-mails and sending replies. I am really grateful for all of them:)
It is nice here, green and blue, lots of natives with dreadlocks and rasta hats, very colourful ones... They are having a jazz festival on the beach, maybe I will manage to go there today. For the time being, I’m pampering myself with long showers, I’m cleaning up Tanasza (where did I get all that dirty laundry:P ), and I’m planning to fix the self steering gear ‘cause I’ve met a guy who has the same model as mine...
8.05.09
zulu 1600,
position 13 23N, 059 24W
still 107 miles to go
The night was just beautiful. I spent it reading the engine manual, because it got overheated – well, luckily, I checked its diodes, because the alarm got broken at La Reunion... I turned it off, obviously, and then I started to worry. I waited for it to cool down. While waiting, I fixed my head lamp (I couldn’t open the wretched thing and change batteries), I read a bit and stared at some diagrams. Not feeling any wiser, I started working on the engine... so far it works.
It will be OK (if not, I will not stand it:) )
The following day I saw Barbados on my port side!
Thursday, 7 May
zulu 1600, 12 28N, 057 47W
Right, the fullmoon is coming so the wind is stronger. A fisherman that almost bumped into me – I woke up because of a nightmare and looked out – said that he could barely see anything because of the waves and he added that the gale was really strong and that I should watch out for small fishing boats near Barbados. Yeah, he really cheered me up. I didn’t sleep all night – I was looking round waiting for waves to lift me up a bit and show me the horizon...
you know what I’m dreaming about? I’m dreaming about a few days at a Spa or something like that, where it is safe, where you can get a massage, and a facial, skin, nail and hair conditioner and where you can have a big comfortable bed with white sheets and get a cup of good coffee with breakfast... I really would love to spend a couple of days in such a place.
Wednesday, 6th of May
zulu 2100,
position: 11 43N, 056 35W
At night, I reefed and fell asleep so deeply that, unfortunately, I didn’t feel that after the squalls the speed dropped down dramatically. I woke up really mad at myself. In the evening, birds were flying over the mast and then sat down right next to my little Tanasza. When I was leaving, they came up flying again and sat next to me so close that I could look them into their eyes. Nice, isn’t it?
1700 ZULU TIME
Position: 10 42N, 055 01W
As if cold in the evenings was not enough (I’m wearing a jacket), I’ve become a creature of the night because of the fishermen...
Wind blows from the stern, stronger with every minute.
I saw a light in front of the yacht in the night. I kept watch and after some time it disappeared. I kept telling myself that it was a delusion, but I still got up often in order to search for it. Finally, I fell asleep. I slept like a log. When I woke up, I saw it in a distance behind my stern. I was lucky to change my heading a bit... The water here is greenish, smells a bit like the Baltic sea...
4.05.09
1400 ZULU TIME
Position: 09 49N, 0 53 16W
I’ve read today: “I like work. It is fascinating for me. I can sit and watch it for hours” :)
a squall here, some fishing boats there, ships... nothing exciting, really...
What was exciting, actually, was a mysterious disappearance of my Brazilian tan when I washed myself after working on the engine... (I was so proud of my tan:) )
1700 ZULU TIME
Position: 09 11N, 051 50W
Oil is leaking from the engine. Not good. I’ve spent an entire day working on the engine, on the bilge, and on pancakes!!! the wind blew itself out a bit, but the morning was heavy with clouds and rain. I didn’t sleep last night – too many fishing boats around. But I think I’ve found a way to move between them: I leave them on my port side during the day. In the night, they drift on the starboard side... well, it’s a bit complicated. Anyway, there are some ships, birds, flying fish, and floating litter. I’m having a good day today, even though my speed is far from perfect.
2nd of May, 2009
1300 ZULU TIME
Position: 08 35N, 050 37 W
Geez, could somebody invent some kind of lights for fishermen? They can’t see anything in their white lights, when they’re working on deck. What is more, their red and green lights are barely visible to others. They scared me yesterday, they really did...
Later I saved a flying fish by shovelling it out into the water...
Today, I went on deck to check the area around the yacht and I saw another fisherman about 50 meters away from me... Luckily, the weather was fine and he saw me and, surprise, surprise, kept watch on the radio. Bravo for the Trinidad guy! He let me know that I still have at least 5 fishing boats from his home port ahead of me...
Position: 07 54N, 049 08 W
May, the 1st... I can still remember standing in a queue, waiting for ice-cream, choosing the flavours I was going to eat in a moment... and then I ate them as long as possible...
There is no denying, I would love to go for a walk and eat lots of ice-cream on the Ustka boardwalk... And here? Days blend one into another... Today, I woke to a kind of weather which made me close my eyes again... I wanted to close them and wait for the wind to stop blowing a bit, and for the heavy clouds to stop frightening me...
I prepared some coffee, checked sails, navigation, autopilot’s stress... I cleaned the yacht a bit in order to give my mind something to work on... Then I saw a shoal of pink jellyfish, the most pink “things” I’ve ever seen. Beautiful.
I have found a certain dependency: every time I need a slotted screwdriver, I find a Phillips one in my tool kit (and vice versa!). It is always like that!
30 April
1900 ZULU TIME
position: 06 51N, 047 39W
I sat at the computer in order to write something for you... but I don’t know what... What would you like to know?
Yesterday it was the first anniversary of the final of Leonid Teliga’s lone cruise. He was the first Pole to achieve that feat on a yacht named “Opty” in 1969.
Last night was not a pleasant one, but I have already got used to it (I guess). I sorted my fruit. Some were thrown away, but overall they are fine. Some of the apples are from Cape Town! It’s a shame that I didn’t take more biltong from the Republic of South Africa with me. Biltong is a local dish – dried (cured?) meat; it was delicious, but it’s gone now :(
And I still have about 9 days on the sea ahead of me...